One day in Dijon – owls, mustard and the history of Burgundy

Originally just a stop on our travels from the south of France to Paris, Dijon was truly a wonderful surprise. With a long and interesting Burgundian history, it’s a calm and pleasant town. It’s quieter than our other destinations, yet relaxing and so good for foodies like us. Let’s dive into a few memorable stops in Dijon.

Place de Libération

This central square is a great first stop. Surrounded by the art museum, Dukes’ palace and a number of restaurants and bars. It’s a wonderful beginning to explore Dijon. You can also find a visitor’s center here – very helpful in answering many of our questions. So find your way here, grab a table, try a sandwich with some mustard. Perhaps, also a glass of Burgundy wine as you enjoy the surroundings and make your plan for the day.

Owl walk

This is an absolute must do when you’re traveling to Dijon. It’s also effortless – walking around while noticing little owl markers. Look for an owl on a shiny piece of metal on the ground or the wall. You can follow the owl on the app, or you can get an owl map at the visitor’s center. There are 22 stops on the main trail, which takes you through the town and lets you explore various historic and unique landmarks. Every owl marker is numbered, so you can easily find each stop. We did this owl walk (‘Parcours de la chouette’) casually, basically stumbling onto stops and then looking for nearby owl markers to see other interesting sights. I loved this unique feature of Dijon.

Palace of the Dukes

This will take you back in time when the Dukes of Burgundy reigned this independent region. The famous tower, high over the city of Dijon, Tour Philippe Lebon, is located right in the center of the ducal complex. It’s symbolic of the central role Philippe played when he rebuilt the palace in the 15th century. You can get a tour to climb the tower but I warn you it is steep and long. I heard the views from the top are absolutely amazing. Various parts of the palace were reconstructed over the centuries. Each one is a unique reflection on the historic period when it was redesigned.

The palace houses the Museum of Fine Art (Musée des Beaux-Arts), one of the largest art museums in France. The collection is quite impressive, from Egyptian art to antiquity, middle ages to the 19th century, graphic arts, and even the 21st century. You can often catch new exhibits – find the schedule here. The palace buildings now include the visitor’s center, a great resource for any of your questions.

Dijon Carousel

Located at Place François Rude, this carousel and nearby Bareuzai fountain are like a postcard of Dijon. Standing since the 1970s, the carousel has been in the same family for six generations. The original version, depicting local scenes, burned in a fire a few years ago. A newly restored carousel is in its place, still paying homage to the city’s history. A little about the history of the square – François Rude was a Dijon born sculptor who worked on the Arc de Triumphe in Paris. His sculptures are now at Dijon’s Museum of Art, as well as the Louvre.

François Rude square is a popular place, crossed by a few major streets and a bustle of activity. Of course, the carousel is a draw for the kids. The fountain features a sculpture of the grape harvester, because wine is so central to the Burgundy region.

Notre Dame de Dijon

This is an absolutely beautiful 13th century gothic church, well preserved/restored inside and out. It’s actually close to Place de Libération and the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. You will notice gargoyles on the facade of the building. On one of the sides is also another owl marker. Legends says, if you tap this marker with your left hand and make a wish, it’s supposed to come true.

The interior is adorned with incredible stained glass windows. Only a few of them are original 13th century. The rest were restored centuries later.

Porte Guillaume

A definite photo opportunity, Porte Guillaume, Dijon’s triumphal arch, is an 18th century gate marking entrance to the historic city center of Dijon. A historic hallmark that reminded me of a bigger version in Paris, just an hour away by train. However, it is very common to see an arch or part of the wall marking entrance to the city in many European towns. This arch was named after Guillaume de Volpiano, abbot of the Abbey of Saint Bénigne, who helped build a nearby abbey turned into a cathedral. There are interesting historical references on the arch. It is quite a sight at any day or night.

Mustard shops

Have you ever had dijon mustard? Being in the capital of mustard, we had to try the original.

Luckily, there are plenty of mustard shops in Dijon. La Moutarderie Fallot is one of the best. You can do a mustard tasting there, sampling various varieties like tarragon, basil, even blackberry mustard. I was a big fan of the traditional burgundy mustard.

We left with plenty of gifts for our families and lots of mustard to cook with.

Les Halles food market

Designed by Dijon native, Gustave Eiffel (yes, the same one that designed the Eiffel tower), Dijon food market (Les Halles de Dijon) is a foodie paradise. It’s open 4 days a week. On Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, there are plentiful vendors outside, selling everything from fruit, berries and veggies to clothes. Inside, you’ll find vendors of cheese, seafood (try Dijon’s famous snails!), meat, bread and other baked goods and various artisanal delicacies. Get there early, because by noon the action quiets down. There is also a cafe inside, so you can sit down for a meal as well.

Other food delicacies

The bountiful region of Burgundy is a spectacular collection of flavors. From gingerbread cookies and donuts (nonnettes) you’ll find at Mulot & Petit Jean to anything with black currant (cassis), luscious and bold burgundy wines, gougere choux pastries, and, of course, beef bourguignon. Stop at numerous Bucherons to sample beef bourguignon or other delicious foods. We decided to splurge and try a meal at L’Essentiel, listed in Michelin’s guide (and I think definitely worthy of a Michelin star or two). It was an unforgettable experience. I highly recommend it! Each course was a surprise and the wine a perfect compliment. The service was exceptional, and yet it felt like we were at home, down to earth.

There are many other interesting attractions in Dijon, including several gardens like Jardin Darcy, churches like Cathedrale Saint-Benigne de Dijon or Eglise St. Michel, opera center and more. Following the owl trail will help you discover many of them. However, one day is all we could fit and I shared our favorites with you. One thing for sure, Dijon is a relaxing, entertaining and delicious stop on your French travels.