Three hours away from the vibrant energy of Montreal, Quebec City, or Quebec as it’s simply known, is a complete opposite – a quaint historic town. With romance in the air alike a small European town and the importance of a political center of the Canadian province of Quebec, it’s unique in many ways. You will see many horse-drawn carriages (caleches) on the streets of Quebec, and they are a great way to explore the city – try a carriage ride for your first day here. The geographic combination of hills and the big Saint Lawrence river add to the city’s look. It is the only walled city in North America, which made it a great capital and a popular conquest in times past. The walls are still well preserved or rebuilt, constructed by the British in the early 19th century, which explains why the city was named one of the World Heritage sites by UNESCO. It’s interesting to see that there is a firewall (stretching up above the roofline) between many of the connected buildings in Quebec. This was done in response to numerous fires that used to burn through the city frequently and made the settlers frequently rebuild the popular-then timber houses. Over 95% of Quebec City residents are of French descent but despite the French signs, English is spoken here just as easily. After all, this is a bilingual country. A huge part of the population is employed by the government, so there is a lot of history there, and you can experience it in various parts of the town.
Haute-ville (Upper Town)
The time seems to pass slower here and you can enjoy the town by foot for the most part and savor your visit like a good glass of wine. The first major landmark in the city is Chateau Frontenac. It’s a great example of the “Canadian chateau” architecture and it quickly became a symbol of luxurious travel in Canada. If you start in front of the chateau facing the Saint Lawrence River, you can walk into Lower Town. To get there, just walk down Cote de la Montagne or take the elevator if you have a stroller. Chateau Frontenac is often seen as a symbol of Quebec City. Situated on the generous boardwalk of Terrasse Dufferin, it’s a beautiful place, with the statue of Samuel de Champlain in front of it and old canons on the side.
The boardwalk has a definite resort feel, which explains why Chateau Frontenac is in such a perfect position. A little piece of history for you, Frontenac was a 17th century governor of New France. While you’re walking around, check out Quebec Experience – a museum dedicated to the city’s history done in a modern way, but there are a few other museums nearby, such as Musee du Fort, for example. Don’t forget to stop at many of the charming little cafes lining the streets. Another walk from the Chateau is Parc des Gouverneurs, appropriately titled for the politicians. It’s a vast park that is a perfect break for a picnic on a nice afternoon.
Pilgrimages used to play a big role (and still do) in Quebec. There are many churches in and around town. Some examples are Couvenant des Ursulines from the 17th century, Saint-Benoit-du-Lac in Eastern Township from 1930s, and the Anglican Holy Trinity Cathedral from the 1800s. Upper Town seems to be a a nice center of this religious activity with many churches built of the same gray stone as the old houses around them. History is well preserved at the Couvent des Ursulines, a monastery that cared for the sick – it is the oldest institution of its kind in North America. Housed in several buildings, it includes the chapel with a lot of beautiful carvings by Quebec’s sculptur, Pierre-Noel Levasseur.
Basse-ville (Lower Town)
300 feet below Upper Town is Lower Town. One of the highlights of Lower Town and also a popular meeting point is Place Royale. This former market square and public gathering place is rather charming with flower-covered balconies and stone buildings lining up around it. This area reminds you of what the early days of New France were and almost transports you back in time. You can smell the sea from the nearby port and enjoy the street life on nearby Rue Petit Champlain, Rue Saint-Pierre and Rue Saint Paul. Rue Petit Champlain is particularly sweet but located at the bottom of the steepest steps I’ve ever seen (perhaps only compared to the Lombard Street in San Francisco). Locals call these steps “break neck”. You can also get a magnificent view of the Upper Town from here.
Residents of Quebec City are certainly proud of their heritage and you can see a bit of that history in a beautiful mural not far from Rue Petit Champlain. It depicts the fur trade (main occupation of this part of town in the past), the influence of Catholic church, the immigrants and the natives.
Quebec is an important port, which helps its economic development immensely. Back in the 19th century the port was booming with the transport of timber down the river and the influx of immigrants. Things have changed but the port is still a popular attraction and the boardwalk is a site of many performers in the summer time. If weather permits, try to take a ferry to the city of Levis – it’s a nice cruise down Saint Lawrence. You can take it near Place Royale and it usually leaves every 30 minutes.
Strolling around Quebec is just like walking down cobblestone streets in Europe. And as in Europe, there are many charming cafes and restaurants to go for either quick steak frites or a long 7-course dinner. Gourmands will rejoice, and moms can find some kid-friendly restaurants in our side column. An interesting fact about Quebec is that it produces 75 percent of the world’s maple syrup. And here they serve it on a lot of foods – sausage, eggs and crepes, just to name a few. You can try a maple syrup beer, bread with maple butter and many other interesting delicacies. So don’t forget to taste it!
If you didn’t have a chance to visit Quebec in the summer time, don’t wait another year. Yes, it may be chilly in the winter time but Quebec’s Winter Carnaval (Carnaval de Quebec) is a huge event in the area. Similar to the New Orleans Mardi Gras or Brazilian Carnival, it’s a huge winter bash first week in February. Even if the city is covered by snow, the Carnival will go on. What to expect during the carnival? Parades, snow sculpture competitions, canoe races, fireworks, balls and more. Fun is there for all ages with games and snowmen for the kids. If you are not looking for a relaxing trip but rather a fun-filled adventure, plan for a winter trip. Any season is a nice treat here, with the charm of old history, the calmness of water and the friendly attitude of the locals.
